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    CP-E Charge System Upgrade - Maxing Out the Stock Turbo Part I

    These mods were installed in a 2015 Fusion SE AWD with approx 18k miles running an SCT Tune, CP-E intake and Cordova Throttle Body
    The Parts
    CP-E Hot Side
    CP-E as usual is exceptional in thier packaging, everything they send is seriously packed for the worst. First couple times I opened a CP-E package I was reminded me of super sealing Christmas presents to troll my siblings. Make sure to have a good blade to open their boxes!
    With secure packing comes pristine products. My CP-E Hot Side came to me in perfect condition.
    The CP-E Hot side is a replacement for the charge air pipe running from the turbo outlet to the IC inlet. The stock pipe is ~2-~2.25 inches in diameter and has restrictive pipe changes in the design (the oval design will flow more air but the changes before and after create restrictions). The CP-E pipe uses stock routing with a full 2.5" steel pipe opening up the total compressed air volume and improving airflow to the IC.
    02 - CP-E Hot Side Pipe.jpg
    CP-E hot side vs stock
    04 - CP-E Cold Side vs Stock.jpg
    CP-E Cold Side Piping with HKS SSQ Blow-Off Valve
    My CP-E Cold side was bought used so it was not packed in CP-E style but the seller did a great job, the package made it over 3k miles and everything was perfect as you might expect for used.
    The CP-E cold side uses a bigger and better pipe design for the same reasons as the cold side. What makes it special is the blow-off valve (BOV) fitting welded to it allowing for the install of an HKS or Tial style (depending on your fitting) BOV. This particular setup is for an HKS style BOV and includes an HKS SSQ Single Port BOV.
    The CP-E cold side also functions as a sound symposer delete by lacking the port needed for the symposer box. I also got a boomba delete block as well and attached it to the stock pipe, if I ever need to pull this BOV off I can go back to stock without putting that stupid box back.
    Note the CP-E Cold Side can be ordered with HKS, Tial, Meth injection or no additional ports for stock replacement if you mount your BOV elsewhere.
    08 - CP-E Ford Fusion 20T Turbo Exhale HKS BOV Kit.jpg
    Synapse Engineering Gen III Blow-Off Valve
    I got a pretty good discount on the cold side kit due to the cosmetic damage so I decided to take a chance on a Synapse Gen III Bov rather than the included HKS SSQ. My thinking being that if something went wrong I have a valve I knew would work with the setup.
    The main point of upgrading the stock BOV is to improve response of the valve and allow higher boost pressures. A more responsive valve decreases compressor surge. Compressor surge occurs when the throttle plate closes and sends a pressure wave back through the IC to the turbo. the turbo is turning in one direction at 30-150k RPM and it is hit with a pressure wave pushing in the opposite direction. This can burn up a turbo and damage the bearings. You can hear this sound as a kind of "wub wub wub wub" or shudder like sound when you let off the gas. You may hear it stock, it becomes more pronounced as you mod.
    After reading a ton on BOVs and looking around I came around the Synapse BOV. The company makes units to compete with the likes of the SSQ and Tial (and some say Greddy, but I don't know there) and they are extremely popular with 2.0L turbo applications for Subaru's, Mitsubishi's and other imports. It's biggest qualities are its high pressure (as common with many new valves) and a patented dual port valve with no preload spring needed. The whole purpose of a synapse bov is to be fast #1. It is a no-nonsense unit with all the standard recirc and anti-stall attachments. With that in mind it is not the loudest BOV out there but it is one of the most sensitive and quickest to respond (best for the money IMO).
    09 - Gen III Synchronic BOV by Synapse Engineering.jpg
    Synapse Intro Video
    Greddy vs synapse, I was nearly sold on the valve already, this closed the deal for me.
    Rust Protection and Shine
    As usual for CP-E both items are very high quality pieces and the fit is perfect. However CP-E does not offer any options other than some basic paint for thier piping. This is great for most customers however living in new england I am already seeing the scourge of rust hitting my car and have noticed that engine components are almost always aluminum or plastic. Wanting to protect my investment I spent a few extra bucks and got things powder coated. This will protect against rust on the piping, getting a nice gloss coat was the same price as matte, so I went for a shine, should impress the guys in the pit.
    03 - Back from poweder coating.jpg

    10 - CP-E Cold Side Kit w Synapse BOV.jpg

    Hot Side
    The hot side install is a breeze! CP-E stuff is always a tight fit but is carefully designed (if kept with normal paint people would think its stock it's so clean) and lines up as it should. This takes a bit longer than the intake because of all the lifting and removal of skid plates but its about the same over all difficulty. The hot side does not require removing the passenger wheel but the cold side did, I found removing the hot side much easier as a result. If installing this I suggest removing the wheel just so you have more options when dealing with the clamps and couplers there.
    As usual the trick with CP-E is to follow their excellent instructions and keep things loose until you have it all lined up. The instructions call for the use of WD-40 for lube when making the fittings. I used some of the oil from the rebuild kit for my BOV. I highly suggest an oil you can precisely apply, you want to be able to fit things together but you really don't want stuff dripping everywhere. If you don't mind cleaning a bit of a mess good ol bomb cleaner will be fine.
    33 - 6RBrWf2.jpg

    Cold Side w/ BOV
    The cold side install, while sounding somewhat simple is quite a bit of an involved installation. It is not something I would suggest for some one starting out in modding. If you have experience working on cars then the mod is nothing but a bit of a slog if you do not, you might want to skip this one. The main reason is there is a lot that can go wrong here and there are a lot of details. I would not say you need to be a pro or anything, but don't make this the mod you do the first time you pick up a wrench at least.
    Note that you will need one specialized tool here, snap ring pliers for HKS installs (not sure what Tial needs). However you will need a number of other standard tools to make this one happen. I ended up using multiple sockets, allen wrenches, allen wrench sockets, needle nose pliers and a screw driver to get this done.
    All that said the install is not super hard and CP-Es instructions are dead on though it leaves out all the wiggling and doing/undoing of things you will do to get things to fit. The biggest thing is to just carefully plan your moves, it is possible to install and remove the pipe and BOV without damaging either item, you just need to be VERY careful (hint you need to lift, push and move the radiator more than you think and it will budge quite a bit, take advantage of it). I scratched things a bit and did not realize this until I was nearly done and understood the underside of the car better. Be patient and you can keep you parts nice and new looking.
    Block off plate, CP-E likes informing service techs of their gear.
    26 - 5uQePOB.jpg
    BOV Near Alternator and Oil Filter - I could not get the breather to stay and did not have the right clamps so I am running open ATM.
    06 - CP-E Cold Side BOV Mount.jpg
    The one thing I think I need to keep an eye on is the clearance on this BOV. It is a bit longer than the HKS SSQ and so it runs a bit closer to the cradle than the SSQ likely does. An RMM should help prevent vibrations from smacking the BOV into the cradle though my cabin is going to vibrate a ton.
    10 - CP-E Cold Side BOV Clearance.jpg
    The other challenge is vac line routing it took some time and I made things a bit longer than what was intended by CPE but should be easier to service. I have run with the stock vac lines and have slack in the right spots to fold out of the way with the stock lines. So far this does not seem to cause a problem with the function of the valve.

    18 - 3tDxWJM.jpg

    You can find more details on vac line routing in the install reference.
    This mod sounds great as you would imagine, while the Synapse BOV is a quieter valve it is still quite loud and authoritative sounding. There is no light "pssh" sound more than a sharp release that is nearly a "woosh" kind of sound. I don't know if I can hear it through the intake or not. I know I can hear it from the front of the car  and in the car and anyone else will too though it is not annoying. The valves sensitivity makes it very easy to trigger on demand at the right RPMs as well.
    The engine itself also sounds more aggressive even though I deleted my symposer with this mod which means I can hear the engine, which sounds great but I could actually hear the wastegate dumping as well (it sounds kind of like surge but will come from the firewall/DP when under power).
    The best part is the valve has nearly eliminated my compressor surge. On some occasions I hear a single shudder like sound but it is often clipped short. The valve is super sensitive and opens every time it is needed. I may be able to improve response with shorter signal lines, I might play with it some.
    As I mentioned at the start of the review, my boomba spacers would not fit with the CP-E cold side, bad for me but good for you, this review will compare my experience with the spacers to the hot and cold side mods. Note the the incompatibility is the the CP-E cold side with a massive BOV only. You can upgrade the hot side and keep your spacers and should be able to with the default tial or HKS bovs that CP-E sells. Anyway, performance:
    Just...um...holy *($#$#$&#( these mods are AMAZING and blow Boomba's spacers away (though this is much more pricey than spacers). The power band is different than the spacers and the throttle is less punchy. With the boomba spacers I would tap the throttle a bit and the car would want to zip off and go. The zip would fall off as RPMs and gears went up, fun for the city, not so much at higher speeds though it likely made me faster up there too.
    With the CP-E setup slight throttle has more power but it is more subtle like when you were stock and first drove the car, looked down and were surprised you could go that fast that smoothly. When I put the pedal down (which I have only done about 80% so far) the car growls and surges forward after a very short lag (almost the same as stock really, DP should fix that). However unlike with my tune where you feel a gentle press into your seat when the torque kicks in I was actually really pushed into my seat for the first time since I have owned this car! The power increase was surprising as all the mods have been for this car. I knew we could make torque but I never thought these two mods alone would make such a change to make me FEEL it big time.
    Final Thoughts
    This setup is hands down amazing and worth every penny so far. It is more on the expensive side of things and the cold side is a much more complex install than doing any or all of the spacers and TB at once however the power is just incredible. I recommend it to anyone wanting to go further than spacers in the future.

    As I drive more I will update and put more info in. If I don't destroy my transmission I should have some good miles in over the next couple weeks.
    UPDATE 6/2:
    So I got a nice drive into Boston today on this setup as well as a bunch of driving around yesterday. So my compressor surge is still around, though it is MUCH less and pops up at different points now. Hoping that playing with the vac lines some can help.
    I feel like these pipes did not change the power curve more than just pushed up the whole curve a fair bit. Acceleration is pretty much the same proportionally as before, its just got more power and gets up to speed with much less effort.
    Cruising is light and easy (and not noisy) as it always has been, once I get into that pedal though, it sounds nice and pulls nice. As you might expect things even out toward the very top end of the range, I suspect that this is due to the restrictive down pipe.
    As for lag, I am not seeing much difference between this and the stock pipes, it may be longer but if it is it is not enough for me to notice at least.
    I would say the biggest thing I have noticed with both this mod and the spacers is how much I want to get a re-tune done to really smooth things out more. Going to wait until I have more on the car first.
    UPDATE 7/24:
    Still really like this setup, I do believe that the car is more toruqey thanks to the pipes but the spool could be irritating to some folks. I am still collecting logs to time it but when paired with the downpipe i really don't think it is much slower than stock maybe even the same as stock. The biggest thing is to get a good strong launch I need to power brake as it takes almost a full second to get to 90%+ peak boost from a dead stop. With a powerbrake to 2-2.5k RPM that time drops to .53 seconds. Still could be better but it may have more to do with the small turbo at this point. For day to day driving I find it perfectly fine and don't really notice it or perhaps I am just very used to it at this point. 



    Edited by AnotherGreenFusion

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