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    CP-E Catted Downpipe - Install Reference


    For more information on the CP-E downpipe check out the product page:


    01 - CP-E QKspl Downpipe with High Flow Cat.jpg

    Stock vs CP-E

    The differences between stock and CP-E are pretty stark. Due to the smaller cat and less heat shielding the CP-E pipe is easily 20-30% lighter than stock. As can be seen the stock pipe has a number of restrictions first with the general angle of flow to the CAT then the piping after the cat decreases and heads into a large flex pieces. All of this causes restriction in the exhaust system and for a 2.0 prevents fast spooling of the turbo under WOT. In particular with the mods on this car.

    03 - Stock vs CP-E.jpg


    05 - 1 Remove the stock motor mount.jpg

    1. Remove the stock motor mount

    You do not need to remove the stock mount to install the down-pipe however it is much easier to install with the RMM out of the way, Be sure to release the pressure on the center bolt by undoing the 19mm bolt on the frame first, otherwise you will bend the cross bolt holding the 2 sides together and it will need to be replaced before re-installing.

    RMM Install Guide for reference:


    06 - 2 Remove cross bar and unolt catback.jpg

    2. Remove cross bar and unolt catback

    Remove the cross bar that sits under the exhaust then unbolt the cat-back portion of the exhaust. Carefully lay the exhaust on the ground.

    07 - 3 Remove Downpipe.jpg

    3. Remove Downpipe

    First start by unhooking the 2 O2 sensors, their connections are just behind the fuel pump, do not remove the sensors until the down-pipe is out of the car. Unbolt the exhaust hangers. Next loosen the V-Band to the maximum level and spray WD-40 on the clamp. While letting the WD-40 Sit, unbolt the down-pipe from the bracket holding it to the engine. Finally tap the V-Band with a mallet or tool, once free you will hear a pop. At that point you should be able to wiggle the DP out of the car.

    08 - Down-pipe removed .jpg

    The DP runs very near the rear drive axel, this is why only the CP-E will fit the AWD models, it is the only one shaped to fit without hitting the driveshaft.

    11 - Down-pipe removed .jpg

    You can see the turbo exhaust outlet here, the v-band clamp is hanging on the end of the outlet.

    12 - Nicke Anti-Seize required for Install.jpg

    Nickel Anti-Seize required for Install

    Ford calls for nickel based anti-seize for their down-pipe, this is due to the extremely high temps produced by the turbo. You may need to order this ahead of time as none was available locally to me. I ended up having the car on stands for a week waiting for this stuff.

    13 - 4 Swap hardware from stock pipe.jpg

    4. Swap hardware from stock pipe

    Swap the sensors, exhaust hanger, and inlet gasket over to the new DP. Ensure that the third sensor port is either used or blocked by the included bolt.

    14 - 5 Manuver pipe into position.jpg

    5. Maneuver pipe into position

    Install the new down-pipe. It will require some maneuvering and some components will drag against the foil head shield/sound deaden-er. It is tougher than you think but can tear so take care.

    15 - 6 Loosely bolt up the exhaust hangers.jpg

    6. Loosely bolt up the exhaust hangers

    Do not fully tighten the bolts, this allows the pipe to move around while holding it in the approx position needed to hookup to the turbo outlet.

    16 - 7 Install V-Band clamp.jpg

    7. Install V-Band clamp

    You will likely need to reach around both sides of the driveshaft and DP to get things lined up. I looked like I was hugging my car from the underside for about 10 mins doing this. Work the vband onto the downpipe, this may require some more loosening and working of the band. I had to spread the band open with one hand while wiggling the band over the down-pipe flange. Take care not to pull the band off of the turbo outlet flange, both flange sides must be mated closely and both contained within the V portion of the band. Do not fully tighten the band yet, make it just tight enough to mate the 2 flanges.

    17 - 8 Install the bracket.jpg

    8. Install the bracket

    Re-install the bracket that holds the DP to the engine using the supplied bolts. The bracket on the CP-E pipe is such that you can place a box wrench on the bolt heads and brace the wrench against the bracket on the DP itself. This allows you to tighten the nuts on the other-side without problems. Once again keep everything loose but connected.


    18 - 9 Bolt up the exhaust system.jpg

    9. Bolt up the exhaust system

    Bolt the exhaust system back to the down-pipe. Use the adapter spacer if you have a stock cat-back system.

    19 - 10 Tighten everything down to spec.jpg

    10. Tighten everything down to spec

    Be sure to get a torque wrench (both in lb and ft lb) for this portion, it is critical that the system is tightened properly or there may be leaks in the exhaust. All bolts tighten as normal EXCEPT the V-Band clamp. To tighten the V-Band you must ensure that vibrations will not loosen the clamp.

    1. Tighten the clamp to torque spec (177 lb in or 20nm)

    2. Tap the clamp with a tool

    3. Repeat 1 and 2 until tapping the clamp no longer loosens to under spec

    Everything is very close but fits perfectly

    20 - Down-pipe installed.jpg

    21 - Down-pipe installed.jpg

    10 - Down-pipe removed .jpg

    04 - oO68qpq.jpg


    09 - Down-pipe removed .jpg

    Edited by AnotherGreenFusion

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    Here's mine. The install was pretty tricky. Your a trooper going all by yourself. I had a friend on top of the lift laying belly flat on the engine lining up the clamp while I was underneath muscling the downpipe. I also need to reinstall the downpipe bracket still as I dropped half the nuts in the process from the supplied hardware and can't find them. It's running good though for now.



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